Authenticity Guide Chanel
Authenticity Guide Chanel
How to tell if a Chanel bag is an original
History
The Chanel brand was founded by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, a French fashion designer who opened her first boutique in Paris in 1909. In the 1920s, she revolutionized women's fashion with iconic creations such as the "little black dress" and the Chanel suit. The fragrance Chanel No. 5, introduced in 1921, became a legendary perfume.
During World War II, Chanel was temporarily forced to close, but later returned and under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld underwent a modernization in the 1980s. The brand remains a symbol of luxury, known for timeless designs, high-quality materials, and the famous double C logo. In addition to fashion and fragrances, Chanel has also expanded into jewelry, watches, and cosmetics and is internationally recognized for its elegance and influence in the fashion world.
Classic Flap Bag - The New Era
With Karl Lagerfeld in the early 80s, the 2.55 got a new look. The inconspicuous Mademoiselle clasp gives way to the striking CC clasp and makes the Classic Flap Bag an icon. The hardware is 24K gold-plated and particularly durable. Various sizes of the Classic Flap Bag are produced and, depending on the format, it is available as a double or single flap. The Single Flap is no longer manufactured today. The lining is no longer just classic burgundy red, and the bag is available in many colors and signature materials such as tweed.
2.55 Reissue - Back to the Roots
On the 50th anniversary of the 2.55, Karl Lagerfeld presents the 2.55 reissue. It is a homage to Coco's revolutionary design and an exact reproduction of the classic: a double flap bag with Mademoiselle clasp and multi-row chain.
Chanel Boy Bag
In fall 2011, Karl Lagerfeld presented the Chanel Boy bag. The name of this bag alludes to both Gabrielle's determined personality (as a lover of sports and simple clothing) and Arthur "Boy" Capel—a polo player with whom she had a long-term romantic relationship.
The Boy Bag shares similar features to the 2.55, but is boxier and features gunmetal hardware. Inspired by a cartridge pouch made for hunters, the Boy Bag was aimed at a younger generation of fashionistas: an androgynous style that celebrates Coco's groundbreaking masculine-feminine aesthetic.
"Gabrielle Chanel had this attitude—that is the soul of Chanel. She had that of Boy Chanel, the great love of her life... In fact, the bag is called Boy Chanel" - Karl Lagerfeld.
Chanel 19 Bag
The 'CHANEL 19' is a tribute to its older sister, the legendary 2.55 bag, created by Coco Chanel in February 1955. It bears the name of its year of creation and the birth date of the icon herself, August 19th.
The chain is made of interwoven metal and features a gradient color with three different looks: The chain links transition from silver to vintage gold, and finally take on the color of ruthenium. The bag features an extremely supple leather structure that allows for unrestricted freedom of movement.
In March 2019, the Chanel 19 was unveiled at Chanel's particularly moving Fall/Winter runway show. It was part of Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld's final collection for Chanel, presented just one month after his death in February 2019. Karl designed the bag in collaboration with Virginie Viard, his longtime "right-hand woman," who was quickly appointed as his creative successor after his death.
This handbag combines some of Chanel's most iconic design features with a softer, more modern silhouette. It achieved instant acclaim among collectors when it appeared in boutiques that same year. Since then, these exquisite models have sold out every season.
How to authenticate a classic flap bag
leather
Most Chanel bags are made from lamb leather. It feels soft and looks smooth and even.
The caviar leather is much more robust and rougher to the touch than the delicate lamb leather. When you touch it, you can clearly feel the bumps that give the leather the appearance of black caviar.
Seams
The seams are precisely crafted and even. The number of stitches is a good indicator to check the authenticity of a bag: the more and smaller the stitches, the more likely it is an original. This can be checked particularly well on the patch pocket on the back of a classic flap bag. The seams of the diamonds merge almost seamlessly onto the bag, the arrangement of the diamonds is not interrupted.
As a rule, you can count 11 stitches per side of a diamond.
Lining
The lining adapts perfectly to the shape of the bag. It doesn't wrinkle or bubble and sits firmly in the bag and can't simply be turned inside out. Only the highest quality leather is used for the inside of the bag.
Buckle front
With the CC clasp and the logo in general, the left C is below, above the right and the right C is above, above the left. The logo on the clasp can be curved or flat. The ends of the Cs are flat and not rounded.
Some CC clasps show a mark on one of the Cs. The appearance and placement of the stamps varies depending on the year of production and means the bag was made in France. These markings are missing on bags made in Italy. It's best to quickly check whether the marking, or lack thereof, matches the MADE IN stamp.
Buckle back
The buckle is always attached to the back at the top and bottom with 2 flat screws. On the left of the clasp you can read CHANEL and on the right PARIS. The writing is even and easy to read.
Chain
The chain of a flap bag is heavy because it is made of high-quality metal. Until 2008, the hardware was 24K gold plated. The leather that is pulled through the chain is also of first-class quality. On an authentic Chanel, the leather is not continuous. You can see a small gap where the leather is sewn.
Stamp
The stamps are straight and even, as is the writing. They are carefully embossed into the leather and not simply printed on the surface. The color of the logo always corresponds to the color of the hardware.
Chanel bags are either MADE IN FRANCE or MADE IN ITALY, but never MADE IN PARIS.
The CHANEL logo is 3.3 cm wide and placed 1.5 cm below the stitched CC inside the bag. For the logo inside the bag, often on the inside of the inner flap, the width of the Cs is the same size as the distance between the two Cs and corresponds to 0.9 cm.
The MADE IN FRANCE stamp is opposite the CHANEL stamp on all lamb leather bags. For bags made of Caviar leather, it can also appear directly under the CHANEL stamp.
Serial number
Serial numbers and the associated authenticity cards have only been around since 1984. Depending on the year, the sticker has a significant appearance and so do the numbers and the length of the number.
Authenticity card
The numbers on the card and on the sticker must match. The card is made of plastic and feels like a credit card. The writing on the card is even and straight. If the numbers look like a hologram, it is a fake.
Since 2005, the authenticity card has been marked with a gray circle at the top right.
Serial numbers
0XXXXXX
1986 - 1988
0 is not crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
7-digit number on a white sticker with Chanel logos and clear foil. Cutout on the left in the sticker.
Older serial numbers starting with 1 or 2 did not have a 0 in front of them. They were 6 digits long and the sticker was bigger.
1XXXXXX
1988 - 1991
0 is not crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
7-digit number on a white sticker with Chanel logos and clear foil. Cutout on the left in the sticker.
2XXXXXX
1991 - 1994
Until 27XXXXXX: 0 not crossed out. 1 with small serifs.
7-digit number on white sticker with clear foil.
3XXXXXX
1994 - 1996
0 is crossed out.
1 without serifs.
7-digit number on white sticker with clear foil.
4XXXXXX
1996 - 1997
0 is crossed out.
1 without serifs.
7-digit number on white sticker with clear foil.
5XXXXXX
1998 - 1999
Until 51XXXXX: 0 is crossed out
From 52XXXXX to 56XXXXX: 0 is not crossed out
From 57XXXXX:0 is crossed out. 1 with small serifs.
From 57XXXXX 7-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
Up to 57XXXXX 7-digit number on white sticker with clear foil.
6XXXXXX
2000 - 2002
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
7-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
7XXXXXX
2002 - 2003
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
7-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
8XXXXXX
2003 - 2004
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
7-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
9XXXXXX
2004 - 2005
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
7-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
10XXXXXX
2005 - 2006
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
11XXXXXX
2006 - 2008
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
12XXXXXX
2008 - 2009
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
13XXXXXX
2009 - 2010
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
14XXXXXX
2010 - 2011
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
15XXXXXX
2011
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
16XXXXXX
2012
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
17XXXXXX
2012 - 2013
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
18XXXXXX
2013 - 2014
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
19XXXXXX
2014
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
20XXXXXX
2014 - 2015
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
21XXXXXX
2015 - 2016
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
22XXXXXX
2016 - 2017
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
23XXXXXX
2016 - 2017
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
24XXXXXX
2017 - 2018
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
25XXXXXX
2018
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
26XXXXXX
2018 - 2019
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
27XXXXXX / 28XXXXXX / 29XXXXXX
2019
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on a white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. “X” crop marks prevent the sticker from being removed without leaving a trace. CHANEL is on the right. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is speckled gold.
30XXXXXX
2020
0 is crossed out.
1 with small serifs.
8-digit number on white sticker with clear foil and two Chanel logos. "X" cut marks prevent the sticker from being removed without a trace. CHANEL is written on the right side. Dark lines on the left side. The sticker is gold speckled.
Microchip
Since April 2021
Since April 2021, Chanel only offers bags and chain wallets with a micro-chip inside the bag. This can be read by Chanel to confirm the authenticity of the bag. The serial number and the corresponding authenticity card will therefore no longer be produced and can only be found on models produced before April 2021.