Céline or CELINE?
Céline was founded in Paris in 1945 by Céline Vipiana and her husband Richard Vipiana, originally as a custom-made children's shoe store. In response to its success, the product range was gradually expanded to include leather accessories and finally ready-to-wear. Vipiana called the style "Couture Sportswear," which accurately described the practical yet elegant look.
Céline experienced a high point with Michael Kors, who led the brand from 1997 to 2004 – the American brought a touch of Hollywood glamour to the house. His successors had little success, and the brand faded somewhat into obscurity until Phoebe Philo took over in 2008 and initially had old collection stocks radically removed.
Celine under Phoebe Philo
When Phoebe Philo took over as creative director of Céline in 2008, she shaped the house with a clear style that was considered minimalist, intellectual, and modern.
Her design philosophy was consistently conceived from the perspective and for the needs of women, rather than for the male gaze or the runway.
The focus was on function, comfort, and proportion. Her designs still stand for strength rather than decoration and enjoy a large following. Today, they are grouped under the term "Old Céline" and are considered collector's pieces.
No conspicuous logos, no superfluous details, which marked a major shift in the fashion of the 2010s, characterized by mini skirts and logos. She did not invent minimalism, but she revived the need for "less."
The switch to Hedi Slimane
In 2018, Hedi Slimane took over as creative director after Philo's surprising departure.
For Phoebe Philo's followers, it was a slap in the face when, as virtually his first official act, he removed the accent from the logo and officially changed Céline to CELINE.
This marked the beginning of a new era for the house.
His approach was more direct and commercial. Logos, hardware, playful silhouettes, and references to pop culture like baseball caps and college jackets dominated the runway.
The Triomphe logo made its comeback. The motif harks back to the chains around the Arc de Triomphe in Paris and was first used by Vipiana in 1972.
Although Hedi Slimane more or less discarded Phoebe Philo's design concept, he, too – probably instructed by the parent company LVMH, given its great success – stuck to certain classic handbag designs that had enjoyed great success under Philo.
CELINE Classic Bag
The Classic Bag was created under Phoebe Philo. Its shape is minimalistic, clear, and geometric. No frills, nothing is too much (not even the space in the bag). It was offered in three sizes and various leathers and colors.
The clasp closure in gold or silver and the adjustable shoulder strap, which could be set to two lengths, made it a classic. An icon of the house was born, which is still considered unforgettable today and possesses that cool IYKYK charm.
CELINE Triomphe Bag
Slimane took over the design of the Classic and initially made only minimal changes, adapting the logo on the leather, which is only visible when the bag is open.
Over time, however, the bag also developed in a more commercial direction, and thus with a clear Slimane signature: the discreet clasp gave way to the shiny Triomphe logo, and the shoulder strap became fully adjustable to fit as many people as possible.
The result is still a geometric crossbody bag, but with a playful twist, and overall more suitable for the masses.
